Martin Margiela did not like to appear, but the label left a mark on 90s. Margiela worked for Jean Paul Gaultier before going solo in 1988. He didn’t give interviews or sit for portraits and became known as “the Greta Garbo of fashion.” As for his clothes, Margiela’s exposed seams and exaggerated shoulder pads, his upcycling of everything from plastic shopping bags to furniture, seemed to express the sense many had at the time that “the fashion system of design and manufacture itself [was] under fire.” An iconoclast, on the boundary between fashion and art. A totally different point of view that anticipated trends: he invented the first street casting. Stunning, oversized, unfinished, destructured garments, featuring a label with four holes, and focusing on white, that took on a conceptual value. The waistcoat created with fragments of broken porcelain, the iconic Tabi boots adorned with graffiti or the vintage sneakers painted in white.